Tomatoes could get extra consideration, however all through Italy, lemon additionally typically finds its manner into pasta.
Along the Amalfi coast, ring-shaped calamarata pasta is paired with clams, parsley, garlic and fried strips of a candy native lemon. In Sicily, damaged pasta comes studded with toasted pistachios, Parmesan, and a lemon’s juice and zest. And in Rome, the juice is whisked with olive oil, cream and Parmesan for al dente tagliatelle.
The bitter and subtly candy citrus balances the noodle’s starch and the sauce’s heft, functioning very like the dose of freshly floor black pepper that offsets pecorino Romano in cacio e pepe. And it serves a lot the identical function as tomato typically does, offering acidity that cuts via cheese.
In reality, the pairing of lemons and pasta is arguably extra conventional than crimson sauce itself, because the fruit arrived in Italy at the very least 1,500 years earlier than tomatoes.
Lemon options prominently in a single pasta in our ebook “COOKish,” which limits recipes to simply six components with out sacrificing taste. Bright, bracing lemon zest and juice perk up the savoriness of garlic, pancetta and capers, whereas a dusting of golden crisp breadcrumbs provides texture.
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This spaghetti is also a one-pot marvel: We prepare dinner the pasta in a minimal quantity of water, and the starchy liquid that outcomes types a evenly thickened sauce that coats the noodles.
Start to complete: 25 minutes
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and floor black pepper
4 ounces pancetta, chopped
4 medium garlic cloves, minced
⅓ cup drained capers, chopped
Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
In a big pot, prepare dinner the panko and oil, stirring, till golden brown. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in a pinch of salt. In the identical pot, prepare dinner the pancetta, stirring, till crisp. Add the garlic and many of the capers; prepare dinner, stirring, till aromatic. Add 4 cups water and ½ teaspoon every salt and pepper, then boil. Stir within the pasta, cowl and prepare dinner, stirring, till al dente. Off warmth, stir within the remaining capers and lemon zest and juice; season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with the breadcrumbs.
Optional garnish: Chopped recent flat-leaf parsley OR finely grated pecorino Romano cheese OR each.
EDITOR’S NOTE: For extra recipes, go to Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street at 177milkstreet.com/ap
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